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News

Changing Landscapes 

Stay Wild

A Fireside Interview with Painter Claire Giordano

Interview by Charlotte Austin // @charlotteaustin

Paints by Claire Giordano // @claireswanderings

Photos by Patrick Mauro

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Deep in the snow-covered Methow Valley, a group of friends has skied miles into a tiny cabin in the mountains. There’s a wood-burning stove, a scarlet sunset, and ski boots scattered across the floor. At the table sits Claire Giordano, a Seattle-based field painter, laying out her supplies: paper, paints, a cup of water. She looks out the window, her eyes moving across the landscape. She notes the fire-scorched trees, the changing light, the low snow cover. Claire specializes in painting endangered environments, and this place is unspeakably fragile. Slowly, she lifts her brush from the water and begins to paint.

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What led you to create this kind of art?

I can trace my path as an outdoor artist back to a specific moment almost nine years ago when I participated in an Inspiring Girls Expedition in July 2010. It’s a 12-day program on Mount Baker in Washington State, and it aims to empower young women through scientific field studies, mountaineering lessons, and art. I joined the expedition the summer before I started college, and it was my first time traveling in an alpine environment and practicing science outside. We learned about glacial recession and climate change by walking the moraine of the glacier, measuring snow, and conducting our own experiments. I was entranced.

In the middle of the trip, we met Maria Coryell-Martin, a watercolor artist who specializes in expedition art. She visited our team to teach an outdoor watercolor lesson, and I’ll never forget that day: The glacier above us was obscured in clouds and cold wind blasted off the mountain. We huddled beneath a barely-adequate tarp and tried sketching the land around us, using our paintbrushes as a bridge between the science lessons and what we saw.

I sat with a palette and paper gingerly tucked on my knees, clumsily painting a pile of rocks that marked the previous location of the glacier terminus before it began receding up the mountain. While I had learned about the impact of climate change, it wasn’t until I began painting that my perception shifted. I really saw the changes around me for the first time: Climate change was impacting a landscape I cared about, and it was suddenly impossible to ignore.

I held my soggy painting carefully in my gloved hands and realized two things: first, that art could be a profound way to communicate science, and second, that painting beside the glacier was one of the happiest moments of my life.

This experience colored my path in subtle ways for many years, influencing my majors in college that focused on environmental education and ethics and my choices of jobs in the outdoor industry. In the last year, it gave me the role models and courage to become a full-time artist.

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Why do you paint outdoors?

I paint outside to see, to be present, and to learn. When I sit down with a blank page, all the normal mental distractions are erased by the focus required to translate what I am seeing and experiencing into marks on a page. I see these marks as a scientific record, both of my personal connection to a landscape and of the environment around me. I hope other people connect to my images on an emotional level, too.

What are the biggest challenges to field painting?

Balance! Time isn’t infinite when you’re in the backcountry, so I’m constantly juggling the time it takes to paint with weather, changing light, self-care, and the needs of my hiking partners.

I also find myself totally engrossed in what I’m painting, which can lead to some funny mishaps. I get so focused that I’ve had food stolen by chipmunks and even a dog while painting! I also have to deal with the elements, from cold to rain to bright sunlight. After sunburning my thumbs on a summit, I now paint almost completely covered in gloves, a hood, and long pants.

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How do you choose what to paint?

As soon as I take my first step on a trail, I start noticing details of the landscape. Throughout the day I collect what I’m seeing in what I think of as a “visual language” of that place: the shapes, the colors, the patterns, the shadows, and the light.

After spending so much time looking around and processing what I see while I’m hiking or skiing, when I actually sit down to paint something, I find that my mind has often already mixed my paints to create the palette of colors. When I can, I try to paint a subject or a scene that captures my experience of the place. Sometimes this is an entire mountain; other times it’s a single branch of salal.

My subject is also heavily influenced by the practicalities of working outdoors: I have to choose something I can fully paint in a very limited timeframe. When I’m hiking, I mark the passage of time with numbers of miles, cookies eaten, and the soreness of my feet. When I stop to paint, time is delineated by a cobalt shadow creeping across a snowfield, an illuminated spire of rock I couldn’t paint fast enough, and the sun drying one side of my painting faster than the other.

What’s in your backpack?

Snacks! I’m the person in your hiking group who always has enough snacks, with extra to share. Peanut butter pretzels are my jam.

In terms of art supplies, I always have two lightweight Art Toolkit watercolor palettes, which are made by the same Maria I met on the glacier all those years ago. I also carry paper, and the size is dictated by how long I get to paint. I carry a few brushes—one small and one large—and an old aluminum tin for water. My favorite backcountry painting hack, however, is those reusable blue shop towels. They’re durable, lightweight, and really minimize my paper waste.

Lastly, I always have the 10 essentials and more layers than I think I will need. Sitting still to paint gets cold quickly, especially in the fall and winter. I routinely wear two puffies and usually sport three hoods.  

What role do you think artists play in protecting endangered things?

I believe that art—in whichever form you choose—has the unique ability to create emotional connections to natural places.

When I sit at the base of a glacier and sketch the terminus to map its recession, climate change is no longer an abstract concept. It’s very, very real. And with the work I make, I strive to inspire others to feel this personal connection, too. That’s how environmental stewardship arises—when people feel something deeply enough to spur them into action.

We often think of endangered species as owls and newts and the charismatic megafauna of the jungle or the Arctic. But when I paint, I see a landscape that is slipping away just as rapidly. It’s taken me years to learn how to put words to what I do, but now when I paint a place I see myself as documentarian, witness, participant, and advocate. The few remaining wild spaces and open landscapes do not have a voice or a seat at the negotiation table. I aim to be that voice, because when we lose these landscapes, I believe we also lose a little part of ourselves. We need these wild places to visit, to explore, to remember our place in the world. The light on this landscape is changing, and I’m here to tell that story. 

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Learn More // claireswanderings.com

The Road Lit by Love

Stay Wild

Questions on the Road to Whidbey Island

Story by Justin “Scrappers” Morrison

Photos by Sera Lindsey

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I ask myself a lot of questions while seated in the captain’s chair of the Prius. 

Does this Prius make me look smart?

How much does it pollute?

Am I fueling the oil wars? 

Am I driving the planet to extinction from the comfort of 

my hybrid La-Z-Boy? 

Will I cause a Silence Spring?

Am I pollution?

Do I really need to buy katsup-flavoured potato chips 

from a Canadian gas station? 

Is the chip dust piled up all over my crotch?

Does the beautiful woman next to me know I just farted?

What time will we get there?

Is time just movement? 

Am I moving at the speed of numbers in a clock?

Am I moving at the speed of the Universe?

Am I moving at the speed of starfish?

Did I just see a giant chainsaw-carved hamburger?

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Some questions may never meet the answers of their dreams. But I’m a dreamer, a believer, and a Portlander driving into the axe-murdery woods of Washington, so I ask a lot of questions. Where is the best thrift shop in Centralia? The answer is a shop called Visiting Nurses. When I go there, am I visiting with the nurses, or is it just a bold statement like visiting will nurse what hurts? Either way, I find an old Cake CD, vintage camping gear, an empty photo album, and the opportunity to make toilet music in their bathroom. 

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Sera, my wifish-lady-friend, and I have a fetish for roadside spring water. In old town Olympia, there is a parking lot with deep-earth-cold spring water belching out of it like a revived drowned god. We stop to fill whatever containers are in the car. The crystal purity of this artisanal spring water reminds me to not eat so many potato chips while it helps me wash down so many more potato chips.

The evergreen state of Washington scares me. If I could skip driving through it on my way to Canada for katsup-flavoured potato chips I would. As a young artist, I used to paint lumberjacks peering out from behind old-growth tree trunks with a look in their eyes that asked, “Can I swing this axe hard enough to split that Earth Firster in half?” My fear of killer lumberjacks in Washington is only confirmed by the chainsaw carvings and propane tank Carcosa art I’ve seen there. I am not a True Detective, but I’ve seen enough to not wander far from the car.

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My suspicion stays with me even when I’m in cute little Port Townsend. Thumbing through books at Thuja while Sera tries on sap-stained vintage jeans, I imagine this is all a trap. I go make sure she’s safe in the dressing room. She thinks I’m a pervert and just trying to sneak a peek at her perfect nudity. She is correct. Why can’t I resist this attraction to her? I have never had this sort of love take over my entire life until meeting her.

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The Port Townsend to Whidbey Island ferry is 35 minutes of glorious wind-in-your-hair wonder. It looks like you’re cruising through the Salish Sea waters, but you’re officially on the aquatic highway portion of Route 20, aka the legendary North Cascades Highway, aka the longest highway in Washington! This highway reaches its asphalt fingertips all the way to the freeze-dried dirt of Idaho. 

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The moment we drive off the ferry and touch rubber on Whidbey Island, my butt cheeks relax and I want to hug a tree with my entire body. This place is safe from blood-thirsty lumberjacks. Why, you ask? Because they can’t swim to it with axes. They would sink if they tried. If somehow they made it to the island by maybe holding onto the undercarriage of the Prius (LIKE THE SHARKS THEY ARE) I would still be safe. The Captain Whidbey would protect me.

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The Captain Whidbey has been protecting city folk like me since its construction in 1907. I like to sit by the skipping stone fireplace and melt into the 111-year-old log walls of the Lodge. What stories could these walls tell? How many of these stories have these walls seen repeated? Has it read this one yet? Does it have a romantic comedy ending? 

The Lodge is just one of the places to stay at the Captain Whidbey. The Lagoon Rooms face a saltwater reflective pool and a contemplation bridge who are locked into the longest staring contest ever. Pretty sure the water will win, but anything can happen. Sera and I stayed in the cluster of Waterfront Cabins perched right above a secluded shell-covered beach. Rainbow bark peels off madrone trees hanging over the cove bubbling with sea life. We watched birds and fish try to eat each other from the comfort of bed. Later we would eat mussels from that same water in the Lodge’s restaurant. I wonder if mussels will someday eat me? Circle of life, Hakuna matata!

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The beaches here are so nice they smile with sun-bleached driftwood lips and smooth moonstone eyes. We wandered down one of the long beaches falling in love with rocks and logs. Lifting them up in the air like cute little puppies in need of a good home only to be dropped in the sand or skipped across the water. We talked about living car-lessly and eating only what we can forage or grow locally. We decide we are going to live here, so I build a driftwood fort. It’s pretty nice and has a sunroof. Sera takes her clothes off to restore her Moroccan skin to its natural color. My Canadian skin doesn’t tan, it rusts, but I get naked and lay down in our new home with her. 

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Love is a shared vibration. The vibes that this woman and I share are insanely intense. Just ask the neighbors. These vibes are explosive. Could we be some sort of bomb or alternative fuel for adventuremobiles? Are these love vibes making us insane? Were we ever in sanity? Are we really naked sunbathing in a driftwood fort? Am I really on my knee slipping a seashell ring onto her finger and asking her to marry me? Did she ask me if I would marry her too? The answer to all these questions is yes! The answer to all the questions in the Universe on the road lit by love is yes. 

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Run to You

Stay Wild

A Human-Powered Road Trip Up the Pacific Crest Trail

Story & Photos by Tommy “Twerk” Corey // @twerkinthedirt

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I merged onto the I-5 North freeway towards Portland. Tears ran down from my face as I thought about how weird it was that I was finally returning home after seven months. This was the day I was dreading because I knew it would finally solidify that my life for the last half of the year was over. 

Six months ago, I took my first step north on the Pacific Crest Trail in Campo, California. This wasn’t just a quick weekend backpacking trip. This was an incredible journey that would become my life. I walked on a two-foot-wide dirt path that led to me to the US/Canada border and the end of my adventure.

I actually walked about 900 miles of the PCT the year prior but got off. Months later, I found myself back in Portland, doing the same old shit, feeling uninspired and missing the simplicity of living and walking in the woods every day. I missed the idea of having a goal, one bigger than I could ever dream possible. So I made the decision to go back. And this time, I was going to finish. 

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Day 138: 

Mile 2035.9. U.S. 

 August 30th, 2018. 5:00 a.m. 

The alarm on my phone goes off and I sit up in my one-man tent, ready for the day. I boil some water and make myself some instant coffee. Although this is a normal routine, it still tastes like shit. I get my burst of energy for the morning and pack my belongings into my little white Cuben Fiber backpack. I have a 2,000-foot climb from this step forward — which pisses me off, but it’s what I signed up for.

As I make my way up the mountain, the sun rises and kisses my face through the trees. This is always my favorite part of the day. I think about how everyone back home is probably still in bed and has to go to work today. Me? I just walk. I watch my feet as I take each step, for the trail is fairly rough. For a moment I forget about the sweat, pain in my feet, and the abrasive grade of the rocky trail as I see the sun touch Mount Jefferson in the background. 

I put on my headphones. Whitney Houston has gotten me up many mountains in the last 2,000 miles, so I put her music on. As I near the top of the climb, “Run to You” is playing. I want to belt out loud with her, but I hum instead, just in case I stumble upon another hiker. That song pretty much became one of my anthems while hiking the 2,650 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail, and it will always remind me of the six months I spent in the woods.

When I reach the top, the chorus kicks in: “I want to run to you, oooo oooo. I want to run to youuuu, oooo ooooo oooohoooo.” And then I see it. I see Mount Hood. I see home. The cloudy sky and Hood’s statuesque peak makes me feel like I’m Frodo on my mission to Mordor. Like a movie scene, with this cheesy Whitney song blasting in my ears and the beautiful scenery surrounding me, I start to cry. Not because I’m exhausted or because I missed home or because I want to be done hiking the trail. I start to cry because in that moment I realize, for the first time in five months and over 2,000 miles, that I just walked home from Mexico. 

I really didn’t think I would make it to this point. Seeing Mount Hood meant that Washington was close and I was at the beginning of my last section of the trail. 

“I might actually make it to Canada,” I said to myself. “I might fucking make it.” I keep saying this as I walk with a big smile and tears rolling down my face.


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Day 175: 

Mile 2,652. Canada. 

 October 5th, 2018. 11:28 a.m.  

“1 Mile to go!” read a sign on the trail made up of small rocks. My stomach dropped and my heart sank. This was the last mile of my 2,650-mile journey. There were no wheels, no gasoline, and no one else telling me what to do. My own two feet had carried me all the way to this point from the Mexican border. This was my human-powered road trip.

That last mile I thought about everything that I had been through in the last six months. I thought about the time I night-hiked 17 miles along the Los Angeles Aqueduct and had very intimate and personal talk with hiker friends. I thought about the time I got stung on my face right before crossing Bridge of the Gods, and how the next morning I looked like Quasimodo. The lonely stretches of the snowy Sierra mountains, to the even lonelier flat stretches through the Oregon hills, to the times I never wanted to say goodbye to the people I was sitting with around the campfire in Washington. All those moments raced through my head as I knew this was my very last mile. 

As I came down the mountain, I could hear people yelling and hollering and celebrating their victories. I couldn’t stop smiling. I raced down the switchbacks, and when I came around the corner of the last one, I saw the monument. The beautiful, wood-carved northern terminus that represented six months of pain, misery, snot, blood, sweat, and a lot of tears. It also represented the happiest 6 months I could’ve ever possibly imagined. It was all the people I had met, the photographs I had taken, and the times I was alone but didn’t actually feel lonely. It was the most present I had ever been in my entire life. And here I was, staring at the end.

I stopped in my tracks and everyone started cheering for me. My hands went over my face and I leaned down into my knees and cried. I cried harder than I had in a very long time. It was all over. I made it. The long journey of a human-powered road trip was finally finished. 

As I stand there with my head down, almost inconsolable, my friend Rumi walks over to me and puts her arms around me. 

“We did it,” she says in a sweet voice. We stay there embracing for a minute longer before I finally am able to show my face to all the other hikers standing in front of the monument.

I walk over to the monument, put my hand on it, take a deep breath with tears still running down my face and snow falling from the sky, and I say, “I did it.”  

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The Epic Road

Stay Wild

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